The Hippies Are Feeling the Bern

Eugene, Oregon is the hippest hippy town in America, I know because I bought 867 Tyler Street, located smack in the middle of flower-child land. Suburban sprawl, Wal-Mart, McDonald’s and Starbucks are dirty words. The University of Oregon is the economic heart and center of downtown.

Our councilman owned the local organic grocery store. I could buy a 100% organic tired-looking apple for a dollar or trudge three blocks over to Applebee’s and buy four shinny not politically correct apples for the same buck. One would never, ever, go to Starbucks for anything, that was for tourists, with the highest per ca-pita number of local coffee shops, why latte with an out-of-towner.

You needed a car to visit McDonald’s or the evil Wal-Mart store. Life in Eugene consisted of being a ‘Duck,’ teaching ‘Ducks,’ selling something to ‘Ducks’ and renting to ‘Ducks.’ Our plan was to convert the garage of 867 Tyler into a nice one bedroom “Duckling’ apartment. Our home was built in 1957 as a single family dwelling but the hippie city government rezoned the street as four unit properties. Suburban sprawl was a dirty word, so raising urban density standards did the trick in two important ways. 1) provided off campus housing for the 50,000 Ducks – our garage would rent for $600; 2) we spent $25,000 to remodel the garage with new sewer line, bath and kitchen. Combined the rental income and new construction inside the city limits increased Eugene’s GDP. A micro-example of what Bloomberg’s Justin Fox is saying:

“I have cited, again and again, the estimate by economists Chang-Tai Hsieh and Enrico Moretti that reducing regulatory constraints on housing to the national norm in just New York, San Francisco and San Jose would increase U.S. gross domestic product by 9.5 percent.” Pulling Up the Property Ladder to Keep the Young Off JAN 11, 2016 By Justin Fox

San Jose is about to go bankrupt because of Proposition 13 which froze property valuation at 1976 levels with only a 2% per year increase unless the home is sold. Homeowners don’t want to give up their residence that has quadrupled in price since 1976. There is no money for police, fire and city employees. There is no money for maintaining infrastructure, let alone improving conditions. Home to Silicon Valley corporate headquarters, San Jose has no affordable housing inside the city limits.

Why Toronto and Portland Work

In 1953, the city itself was doing just fine, but the 12 smaller municipalities surrounding Toronto were struggling to keep up with their postwar sprawl. So the province of Ontario imposed a metropolitan government over the entire region to handle big, costly projects: policing, water and sewer systems and major roads. Each of the cities, still run by their local councils, paid into the kitty according to their tax base assessments. Toronto, which had 57 percent of the population, paid 62 percent of the metropolis’s bills.

The system certainly had its problems, but it made common cause between the suburbs and the city center. But the rapid rise of suburbia swiftly reversed that cash flow. Just nine years later, Toronto made up just 38 percent of the metropolitan area’s population and it contributed 44 percent of its budget.

The system was tweaked over time, and the number of municipalities consolidated to six. Then in 1998, the provincial Progressive Conservative government (including Doug Ford, Rob’s father), forced the amalgamation of all six cities into a single large unit.

While other cities in the United States eventually formed metro governments, only Portland, Ore., has followed Toronto’s model and elected a regional council. This is one reason why Portland, two hours north of Eugene, has been voted as the number one quality of life city in the US.

Obama in 2008/12 got 80% of the vote in Eugene. The hippies are ‘Feeling the Bern’ even more than when they worshiped the ‘O.’ Bernie Sanders not only clarifies the problems he educates us all to his democratic socialist solutions. The Oregonians have been practicing what Bernie has been preaching.

MY BACK YARD – Phaselis

Alexander the Great spent the winter in my back yard 2400 years ago.

Phaselis is an ancient city ranged on a peninsula surrounded by three small, perfect bays, now protected within the grounds of a beautiful national park. Located between Kemer and Olimpos. It is 58 kilometers from Antalya it’s a perfect spot for a quiet rest and a splash in the sea from one of the small pebbly beaches. Excursion boats and yachts often drop anchor in the southern harbor for lunch, a swim, and a walk through the ruins.

Phaselis was an ancient Greek and Roman city on the coast of Lycia. Its ruins are located north of the modern town Tekirova in the Kemer district of Antalya Province in Turkey. It lies between the Bey Mountains and the forests of Olympos National Park, 16 kilometers (9.9 mi) south of the tourist town of Kemer and on the 57th kilometer of the Antalya–Kumluca highway. Phaselis and other ancient towns around the shore can also be accessed from the sea by daily yacht tours.

The town was set up by the Rhodians in 700 BC. Because of its location on an isthmus separating two harbors, it became the most important harbor city of eastern Lycia and an important center of commerce between GreeceAsiaEgypt, and Phoenicia, although it did not belong to the Lycian League. The city was captured by Persians after they conquered Asia Minor, and was later captured by Alexander the Great.


Life is all about Race, Religion, Politics, Sex and Money

Arthur Miller would never have married Marilyn Monroe if he had titled his book, “Nervous Breakdown of a Salesman,” but that is how I discovered how life is all about Race, Religion, Politics, Sex and Money. I asked to be a salesman because I needed Money and like asking a bank, if you need it don’t ask.

‘Cause we’re one and the same
We’re anything but ordinary
One and the same
I think we’re almost legendary.
You and me the perfect team
Chasing down the dream
We’re one and the same!

After I was fired the first time I joined 40+, listed my ten life accomplishments, practiced interviewing and got another chance to hear, “I hate to let you go.” When my demonic boss convinced me to get on my knees and accept Jesus Christ as my Lord and Savior I knew my childhood confusion about religion had caught up with me.

Life is all about Race, Religion, Politics, Sex and Money. Growing up on Mooney Avenue as a Christian Scientist in a fifty-fifty neighborhood of Catholics and Protestants, religion, not race, politics, sex and money was my problem. At Walnut Hills High School, one third Jew, one third Black, one third White I still didn’t feel like I fit in and week-daily retreated to Mooney Avenue as soon as the last bell rang. My first three years at the University of Cincinnati I drove, instead of taking the bus, but the routine was the same get home as soon as my last class ended. Twenty-one was my personal emancipation year – voted for Goldwater, joined Sigma Chi Fraternity, moved into the fraternity house, graduated from Sunday school, got drunk, wrecked my ’63 Corvette Stingray, took my first aspirin and left my celibate ‘emotional geek’ lifestyle for the greener hedonist streets beyond Mooney Avenue.


Graduated with a B.S. of Architecture, magnum cum ‘skin of my teeth,’ joined the US Marine Corps for three years of ‘man-up’ training, voted for George Wallace, married an adult child of alcoholic German-Catholic parents and moved to nove-cuatro-nove, Avenida Higeninoplis, Sao Paulo, Brasil. A year after our arrival, Jimmy Carter, sent Roslyn and a Black guy from the State Department to preach human rights to Latin America’s dictator leaders, giving me my first glimpse of race, religion, politics, sex and money in action overseas.

The money part I learned the hard way, while my engineer co-workers lived within their means my ACAP partner and I augmented my salary with loans from nine different banks. Three years later the jig was up and I returned to Christian Science to save my fiscal ass. It didn’t work so I tried attaching an EMBA to my CV and pursuing a sales career which soon brought on my mid-life crash.

My second marriage alleviated my Money and Sex worries so that I could move on to Race and Politics. In my sophomore ‘widower’ year, I traveled to Eugene, Oregon where they know nothing of Race and everything “off the wall” about Politics. The “Ducks” swim on the most politically active college campus in America, Obama visited three times in his 2008 campaign. Obama memorabilia accounts for one third of the city’s GDP, logging reparations and coffee bars make up the remainder. If I’m not mistaken, Obama was the first Black man to visit Oregon.

However, my hedonist underbelly soon relieved me of all the money I brought from Texas and I was forced to run away to China to make ends meet. After four years of whistling past the ATM machine, my ‘higher power’ took pity on me by sending a thrifty hedonist marriage partner. Our combined 12 years of teaching ESL in China has proven to be our only marketable life skill, and so it is. Our expat lifestyle has demonstrated beyond a reasonable doubt, that life outside the US is hedonist heaven. But even in heaven it’s still all about Race, Religion, Politics, Sex and Money.

Our landlord says we are living at Hasim Iscan Mah. 1307 Sok. Muratpasa/Antalya, Turkey 07100, but little does he know that Jane’s still at 1506 Muscatine Avenue in Iowa City and I never left 3531 Mooney. I wonder what the Turks think about Race, Religion, Politics, Sex and Money? We’ll soon find out. tegory66@gmail.com

Travails with Jane Marie to Lake Van

DSC_0046Jane Marie likes to travel with a 55-gallon bucket list on her back. She set off at the end of March along with her accompanied senior to experience Sicily, Malta, Santorini, and Lake Van in eastern Turkey. Jane Marie spent hours and days researching planes, trains, automobiles and of course hotels. She collated and sifted all this info with her frugal-traveler JD Law brain. As her trailing spouse shuffling 50 meters behind I followed the trail of bucket leaks known among family and friends as Jane’s Travel Travails.”

Jane toqua piano

Sicily: “How long do you want to stay in Sicily the largest island in the Mediterranean?” A couple of days should be enough, we can rent a car, like we did in Rodos, and see all we want to see. Our first day was spent in the Marriott Courtyard at the Istanbul airport because we were 15 minutes late for checking in two hours ahead of an international flight. Half of the second day was spent driving from the Catania airport to the Villa de Bosco Hotel. Blame it on traffic where a Smart car equates to a small limo in downtown Catania.

Happy Face teg

Malta: Following our two hour (international flight) + two more hours waiting to board the 15-minute inaugural service of Volotea airlines to Malta, things started looking good for the shuffler. We shared my kind of home away from home – a full service two-bedroom apartment with a harbor view and a TEX-MEX restaurant down below. There is tranquility in group travel with Jane Marie, the shared experience with others, allows me more sedentary quality time. Malta has many beautiful and historic towns to see, so while Jane Marie, Tamara James and Lawrence climbed every hill and stair; visited every venue and tourist attraction I enjoyed four days of bacon, pulled pork, rib-eye and steak filets downstairs.

“Com’on teg, we’re going to the Good Friday procession in Zebbug, we even have seats.” You can see how excited I was in the first hour of the four-hour cross dragging parade. I’m sure it was karmic payback for teaching Chinese ESL students the meaning of T.G.I.F.

Santorini Family

Santorini: We were joined in Santorini by Lauren ‘the millennial’ James, here along with me, in my all weather North Carolina State blue knit cap, are watching Tamara Sandwick-James explain to Lawrence James the meaning of hyphenated surnames. Tamara’s for Hillary, even without the Rodham hyphen, Lauren’s for the Democratic nominee and Lawrence, who retires from the EPA December 31, is keeping his powder dry. No Tex-Mex this time but the James family hosted us in a most splendiferous villa accommodation.

san antnsantorini to antalya

All was going well until Tamara and I told Jane, the frugal traveler, that it was going to cost at least $600 to float or fly home to Antalya. On the map it looks like, and is, a straight shot but the ferry season starts May 1st and the plane has to fly to Athens, from Athens to Istanbul and then to Antalya. Santorini is Greek, Antalya is Turk, never the twain shall meet anytime soon.

Sound of Music

Lake Van: When Jane Marie and I went for our residence renewal interview the immigration officer said don’t go to Van (pronounced like one or the Korean won). The Turkish Airlines check-in lady just laughed and our landlord said he had never been and never would. However, none of these people had had the opportunity to scan Jane Marie’s 55-gallon bucket list. Not to worry, the ferry boat ride, to visit the Armenian church was enough to make me change my Facebook cover photo.

3 guys mustache

Erzurum: After a six-hour bus ride we spent the night in the land of the swarthy-dudes or ‘mountain people’ or the ‘black beards.’ Didn’t see many beards and conversely never saw one without his ‘stache.’

Png_Ataturk_Bayark_Resimleri_(75)Ataturk made everybody throw away their fez. and he himself modeled the clean shaven look, so as not to scare away the west.

Evening strolls with Jane Marie were a shuffler’s marathon for me, cheered on with whispered chants of “stay close to me teg, please stay close.”


The next day Jane Marie left me at the Erzurum railway station to wander around the neighborhood taking pictures. After all there were 55 minutes ‘til the overnight sleeper train pulled out for Ankara. When we passed the 30 minutes to go mark, I started festering ,like I used to do when I had to make sales calls on companies that wouldn’t buy from me even after hell had frozen over. Why did I let her go out alone in swarthy-dude country even in broad daylight? Foregoing life in the present I became totally focused on the future.

Forget the $80 tickets, how am I going to tell the police my dilemma with my 15 word Turkish vocab? “What does she look like, where did she go? Do you have free wifi so I can show you her Facebook page on my laptop? No I don’t have a smart phone and she took my dumb one to keep track of the time. Where did your leading spouse go? I have no idea and maybe Jane has no idea where she is. Hopefully, the ‘mountain people’ unlike our Native-Americans, formerly known as Indians, only attack at night. Faced with this very serious situation. Remembering the immigration officer’s advisory, “don’t go there,” I began to pray. Not in the Ted Cruz ‘Body of Christ’ sense but more along the lines of “Allah for God’s sake help me now.”

I took our luggage outside, sat on the bench and using by best military training skills scanned the horizon. Still no divine intervention, I turned to rummage Jane’s bag for her phone in the hopes that… Then I heard that sweet voice, “you weren’t worried were you? I got some great pictures.”


My overly extended-wear Duke sweatshirt attracts the admiration of a French teacher on the streets of Konya.

Train trip to Ankara, Ankara, train to Konya and Konya were great places to see, with many things to do but compared to my near-losing-Jane experience in Erzurum, totally uneventful.  https://www.facebook.com/tegory


optimist 1955

After being forced from my marital nest I cast my sense of belonging net over a wide swath of clubs for self-improvement, self-serving and serving other selves. The range of my search for self-actualization spanned the gatherings of Alcoholics Anonymous, Kiwanis, Lions, Toastmasters, Rotary and even the Optimists club.

Now, re-martially nested just behind the front-lines of World War III, I am ever-more attuned to socio-economic world events. My take-away from living seven years in China is not even the Chinese know what’s going on in China. As in China, I am an illiterate in Turkey and rely on a once a month info-dump from my English speaking landlord.

When asked if I was going to vote, I said that I already had spent $27 twice for Bernie. Kiwanis, Lions, Rotary and Optimists clubs eagerly sought out political office seekers to speak at their breakfast, lunch and dinner meetings. Choice in politics always meant “the lesser of two evils” or “better the devil you know.” The Clinton-Trump dilemma harkins back to the 1954 Los Angeles Optimists club meeting pictured above. An updated version might read; “why worry about it we’re already broke.”

Would You Buy Some Donkey Hide Viagra from this Guy?

(CNN)Gelatin produced from donkey hide is a key ingredient of one of China’s favorite traditional remedies, known as ejiao, which is used to treat a range of ailments from colds to insomnia.

But as the rising power shifts towards advanced industry and away from traditional agriculture, donkeys are in decline. State statistics show the population has fallen from 11 million to six million over the last 20 years.

“Da-ji-how! I’m Howard Ruark. I’m a graduate of Harvard University, with a PhD in physiology and am the director of Asia-Pacific Pharmaceuticals.”

Viagra and Shark gelatin for arthritic joint pain were my bread and butter product promotions

Thus, began my 10 minute sales presentation to between 500-700 Chinese countryside folks at zero-seven hundred hours in the municipal theater of a city famous for its donkey cuisine. My handler-translator and I arrived the night before, checked into our shared room at the local one and a half star hotel, then headed out for the best donkey restaurant.

Couldn’t read any of the Chinese characters but the Donkey logo made it easy to spot

I had the full-Monty of five dishes from donkey soup, stir-fry and filet. Donkey meat has that large dog taste, lean and not a threat to the beef industry.  I had, had the donkey experience in Zhengzhou a few times – even an illiterate can spot the silhouette over the entrance.

However, as Howard Ruark, I was there to put my American face on the promotion of ‘Nah-Dough,’ Japanese health food capsules labelled as an American product. But the real selling feature that got 500-700 people to the show – oh, I forgot, they were old married couples – was the implicit benefit of Chinese Viagra.

Henan Province sends 20+ doctors for a two stint to Eritrea, Ethiopia and Zambia. Jane Marie and I were lucky enough to visit this group at their hospital in Addis Addaba

Following a contract dispute, I fell back on my ESL teacher role and proceeded to immerse Henan Province doctors going to Africa in my beginners’ course “Green Eggs & Ham.”  Once they mastered the linguistics of “Not here, not there, not ANYWHERE,” we moved on to “The CAT in the HAT.”


My students covered the medical field from acupuncture to brain surgery and I initially sought their advice for my osteoarthritis. But around the sixth week I manned-up the face-losing nerve to ask for their Chinese Viagra recommendation. A doctor getting ready to go on his second two-year stint to Zambia gave me this script: 条鱼,两条鱼,红色的鱼,蓝色的鱼

Your typical upscale donkey meat delicacies restaurant

We moved to Yantai in 2013 and when I took my script to the neighborhood pharmacy I discovered why China is buying up the global supply of donkeys. After, the usual pleasantry “Knee-How,” I show my note and she gave me the “May-Low” NO! The pharmacist suggested ejiao tea. I quickly responded with my third Chinese vocabulary word “Dew-Ow-Shall” or how much? 900 yuan or $150 for three of these brown bars.

My over the counter purchase was in the difficult to dissolve brick format

The Google search of ejiao put Yantai , China as famous for their donkey hide concoction that increases the blood flow and circulation system. How the hide of a donkey turned into gel bricks could do that remains a mystery but for 900 yuan I sensed it was meant for something else besides colds and insomnia.


Woodward High School opened in 1831 just before Tocqueville’s arrival in Cincinnati.

Alexis and his buddy Beaumont arrived by steamship on a cold as hell 24th of November 1831. They talked with Cincinnati lawyer Salmon P. Chase, who was to become Chief Justice of the Supreme Court, a Justice McLean and Dr. Drake. Alexis tried to test their faith in democracy. Chase, the fly in the ointment of Abe’s cabinet, was the Hillary Clinton elitist snob of his day and declared the deplorables messed with his rule of the righteous.

McLean however, saw  Andrew Jackson’s campaign against the Second Bank of the United States as the best example of the ordinary population defending itself against a privileged elite.

Alexis was impressed with the industriousness of the city and asked why there was nothing but trees on the Kentucky side? Chase, the elite, McLean, the populist and Dr. Drake were in complete agreement that the Ohio River, the Mason-Dixon Line, clearly illustrated the differences in the South’s slave economy versus the North’s free enterprise system.

Alexis got back on the boat to Louisville declaring that Democracy in America had shown him that the middle classes can govern the state and he regarded Cincinnati (pop. 25,000) as a place of ‘absolute social equality.’

Tocqueville believed that associations operating outside the sphere of government and economic life—what we now refer to as civil society—were essential bulwarks against any incipient democratic decay and despotism.

My Backyard

Everybody’s backyard is different. Fortunately I fought in the Vietnam War from the side of Mt. Fugi just above the tree line and a little too close to the snow. Five years later I was looking over my back fence in Sao Paulo at the ancient Incan  home of Machu Picchu. The best thing I liked about living in Mainland China was visiting Hong Kong every thirty days to renew my visa. Now, living in Antalya, Turkey my backyard reminds me of back home in Indiana. At four, five and six I spent a lot of time playing in the dirt on my hands and knees. Every now and then I would find an Indian arrowhead, like the ones I saw on TV.

Three Christmases ago Jane Marie and I walked a couple of blocks of Old Town and decided to move here, where Alexander the Great spent the winter of 333 BC. Homer was storytelling Greek Mythology poetry long before the Greeks had an alphabet. Bellerophon the Greek hero rode Pegasus the flying horse until Zeus dropped Bellerophon out of the sky as a slave in the small village of Tios – two hours by bus from our front porch.

What is known of Termessos’ history commences principally at the time that Alexander the Great surrounded the city in 333 BC; he likened the city to an eagle’s nest and in one of few cases, failed to conquer it. 

TERMESSOS (Greek Τερμησσός) was a Pisidian city built at an altitude of more than 1000 meters at the south-west side of the mountain Solymos (modern-day Güllük Dağı) in the Taurus Mountains (modern-day Antalya province, Turkey). It lies 30 kilometers to the north-west of Antalya. It was founded on a natural platform on top of Güllük Dağı, soaring to a height of 1,665 meters from among the surrounding travertine mountains of Antalya.

Concealed by pine forests and with a peaceful and untouched appearance, the site has a more distinct and impressive atmosphere than many other ancient cities.

Termessos is one of the best preserved of the ancient cities of Turkey. The city was founded by the Solims who were mentioned by Homer in the Iliad in connection with the legend of Bellerophon.

Because of its natural and historical riches, the city has been included in a national park bearing its name, the Mount Güllük-Termessos National Park.

Arrian, one of the ancient historians who dealt with this event and recorded the strategic importance of Termessos, notes that even a small force could easily defend it due to the insurmountable natural barriers surrounding the city. The location of the city at the mountain pass from the Phrygian hinterland to the plains of Pamphylia is described by Arrian, Annals 1,26,6. Alexander wanted to go to Phrygia from Pamphylia, and according to Arrian, the road passed by Termessos.

There are other passes much lower and easier to access, so why Alexander chose to ascend the steep Yenice pass is still a matter of dispute. It is even said that his hosts in Perge sent Alexander up the wrong path. Alexander wasted a lot of time and effort trying to force his way through the pass, which had been closed by the Termessians, and so, in anger he turned toward Termessos and surrounded it. Probably because he knew he could not capture the city, Alexander did not undertake an assault, but instead marched north and vented his fury on Sagalassos.

Alexander The Great’s yacht club, founded in the winter of 334 BC at Phaselis, an hour drive south along the coast from our home in Antalya.

PHASELIS (GreekΦασηλίς)  was an ancient Greek and Roman city on the coast of Lycia. Its ruins are located north of the modern town Tekirova in the Kemer district of Antalya Province in Turkey. It lies between the Bey Mountains and the forests of Olympos National Park, 16 kilometers (9.9 mi) south of the tourist town of Kemer and on the 57th kilometer of the Antalya–Kumluca highway. Phaselis and other ancient towns around the shore can also be accessed from the sea by daily yacht tours. 

The town was set up by the Rhodians in 700 BC. Because of its location on an isthmus separating two harbors, it became the most important harbor city of eastern Lycia and an important center of commerce between GreeceAsiaEgypt, and Phoenicia, although it did not belong to the Lycian League. The city was captured by Persians after they conquered Asia Minor, and was later captured by Alexander the Great

After the death of Alexander, the city remained in Egyptian hands from 209 BC to 197 BC, under the dynasty of Ptolemaios, and with the conclusion of the Apamea treaty, was handed over to the Kingdom of Rhodes, together with the other cities of Lycia. From 190 BC to 160 BC it remained under Rhodeian hegemony, but after 160 BC it was absorbed into the Lycian confederacy under Roman rule. Phaselis, like Olympos, was under constant threat from pirates in the 1st century BC, and the city was even taken over by the pirate Zekenites for a period until his defeat by the Romans. In 42 BC Brutus had the city linked to Rome. In the 3rd century AD, the harbor fell under the threat of pirates once again. So it began to lose importance, suffering further losses at the hands of Arab ships, until totally impoverished in the 11th century. When the Seljuqs began to concentrate on Alanya and Antalya as ports, Phaselis ceased to be a port of any note.

Aspendos was an ancient city in PamphyliaAsia Minor, located about 40 km east of the modern city of AntalyaTurkey. It was situated on the Eurymedon River about 16 km inland from the Mediterranean Sea; it shared a border with, and was hostile to, Side.[2]

The wide range of its coinage throughout the ancient world indicates that, in the 5th century BC, Aspendos had become the most important city in Pamphylia. At that time the Eurymedon River was navigable as far as Aspendos, and the city derived great wealth from a trade in salt, oil and wool.

HERE: ASPENDOS 45 minutes east of Antalya

The Persians captured the city again in 411 BC and used it as a base. In 389 BC Thrasybulus of Athens, in an effort to regain some of the prestige that city had lost in the Peloponnesian Wars, anchored off the coast of Aspendos in an effort to secure its surrender. Hoping to avoid a new war, the people of Aspendos collected money among themselves and gave it to the commander, entreating him to retreat without causing any damage. Even though he took the money, he had his men trample all the crops in the fields. Enraged, the Aspendians stabbed and killed Thrasybulus in his tent.

When Alexander the Great marched into Aspendos in 333 BC after capturing Perge, the citizens sent envoys asking him not to garrison soldiers there. He agreed, provided he would be given the taxes and horses that they had formerly paid as tribute to the Persian king. After reaching this agreement Alexander went to Side, leaving a garrison there on the city’s surrender. Going back through Sillyon, he learned that the Aspendians had failed to ratify the agreement their envoys had proposed and were preparing to defend themselves. Alexander marched to the city immediately. When they saw Alexander returning with his troops, the Aspendians, who had retreated to their acropolis, again sent envoys to sue for peace. This time, however, they had to agree to very harsh terms; a Macedonian garrison would remain in the city and 100 gold talents as well as 4,000 horses would be given in tax annually.

In 190 BC the city surrendered to the Romans, who later pillaged its artistic treasures.[5] Toward the end of the Roman period the city began a decline that continued throughout Byzantine times.

Aspendos is known for having the best-preserved theatre of antiquity. With a diameter of 96 metres (315 ft), the theatre provided seating for 12,000.[6]

The theatre was built in 155[6] by the Greek architect Zenon, a native of the city. It was periodically repaired by the Seljuqs, who used it as a caravanserai, and in the 13th century the stage building was converted into a palace by the Seljuqs of Rum.[7]

In order to keep with Hellenistic traditions, a small part of the theatre was built so that it leaned against the hill where the Citadel (Acropolis) stood, while the remainder was built on vaulted arches. The high stage served to seemingly isolate the audience from the rest of the world. The ‘scaenae frons’ or backdrop, has remained intact. The 8.1 metre (27 ft) sloping reflective wooden ceiling over the stage has been lost over time. Post holes for 58 masts are found in the upper level of the theatre. These masts supported a velarium or awning that could be pulled over the audience to provide shade.[6]

The Aspendos International Opera and Ballet Festival offers an annual season of productions in the theatre in the spring and early summer.

House of Clubs

Do you like to travel? Do you long to see the world? Do you want to travel alone, with someone, with two someones, three someones or maybe four someones? My favorite mother-in-law always said three-day visits were max. When Jane Marie couldn’t use her ticket, I went to Adana solo and it was like shopping getting to the store, asking “where was it that Saul converted to Paul and how do I get there?” In this latest episode of Travailing with Jane Marie we were a five some teamed-up with Tamara, Lawrence and Uncle Vic, in London at 39 Godfrey Street.

Previously, all except Uncle Vic, had occupied an uptown apartment in or is it on Malta with access through the Texas Bar & Grill. I’m not sure if we broke the three-day stay rule, because I could always go for another round of rib eye’s, bacon burgers and Zero while the other three were out there walking, climbing Olympian class steps taking ‘I and sometimes we, were here’ photos.

39 Godfrey Street in Chelsea was three floors, three bedrooms, two baths and homey touches like a real living-dining-kitchen first floor. Frugal chef Jane Marie stocked the lader before the Tres Americano’s arrived while I nestled into my sedentary perch at the dinner table.

I resisted all invites to tour the city-scape under the excuse that it could never measure up to the photos displayed in every ESL Training school in China.


However, Uncle Vic sprung for tickets to the Broadway musical Kinky Boots with songs by Girls Just Want to Have FunCyndi Lauper. Again, approaching our three-day expiration date, we took the ferry to Jersey. Somewhere between here and there we got the word that Turkey was not issuing visas to Americans. Thus, the frequent topic of conversation changed to, does that mean us? What if that does mean us? If money wasn’t a problem I think we all move to the island of Jersey, just for the ice cream.

The Original Jersey Shore

Doesn’t look like much when the tide goes out, but you must rent a car to appreciate the countryside. After conferencing with the Polish and Romanian hotel staff the key insight for me was all the street signs were in French and 80% of the population originated in Portugal. I swayed the where do we eat committee to go Portuguese because Tam and Lawrence fish & chips pubsters got the same tip.


Ever on the lookout for somebody stealing my food, I was thankful that Tam was a veggie lover and Jane Marie chose fish. I needn’t have worried I was awarded the Over-meat eaters Anonymous trophy, the churrasco skewer.

Jersey is named after the Jersey cow or more likely the cow is named after the island because Guernsey is next door and they don’t call their cows jerseys. My English neighbor has never been to Jersey, but he says they’re famous for Jersey cream and new potatoes. The ice cream and driving the Jersey Garden State alley parkway are worth a visit and a millionaire residency permit.

Three’s Company in the Frog Loft

We got off the ferry from Jersey to St. Malo and switched drivers from English right Lawrence to French left Tamara. I tried to help the navigator role reversal by informing all that Malo meant bad in Latin. This unsolicited message seemed to fall on deaf navigator ears both front and back. The Frog Loft destination in St. Malo’s old town was GPS’ed like astronauts on re-entry. The contrast between 39 Godfrey and our French accommodations were quickly spotted by Victor, “where are the doors?” The short answer, not since 1971 after “Light My Fire“, Jim Morrison died. The draw curtain motif for bedrooms and master shower gave it that, you’re no longer in 39 Godfrey Street anymore feeling.


The Bagged Lunch at Normandie

The gang of Clubs visited the Pointe du Hoc, Omaha Beach. Our adult leader, Tamara was nice enough to take us to a real live raw cheese factory where I purchased two months aged mildly stinky and three month ripened stinky-stinky varieties. After which we proceeded to look over the D Day cliff while eating my stinky cheese sandwich. Now, I have to re-watch saving Private Ryan and the longest Day.


Paris for Two, What Could Possibly Go Wrong

Uncle Vic, the James’, Tamara and Lawrence, left us for London and America after dropping us off at the train to Paris. Saying goodbye to our adult leader meant Jane Marie took over charting a course utilizing the all forms of public transportation, including walking, even up and down steps.

The second day plan: take the Metro to the Eiffel then an hour boat cruise on the Seine. Trudging up the steps behind Jane, the buzzer went off and a fellow straggler and I jammed ourselves in the closing doors in a lose-lose access situation. The look on Jane’s face as the train left the station – what could possibly go wrong?

First off, no cell phones, let alone smart phones; second Jane Marie had no money. Thus, began a personalized episode of What Would Two Semi-Adults Do if they got separated in Paris with no phones and no money? I got on the next train, however, it wasn’t headed for Eiffel. Consulting the onboard Frenchmen, I made a mid-course transfer and arrived 20 minutes later to no sign of Jane Marie. Maybe she had gone off to the Tower entrance. A kilometer later no Jane Marie at the North entry. Poured my sad tale of losing my wife in Paris to the non-English speaking security twosome- “can I walk under the tower to the south entrance?” Go ahead: “Do you have a knife?” “No wife, no knife.”

South Eiffel no better, maybe she went on ahead to the cruise ships? Had no idea which boat Jane had bought tickets but when the sign read 69€. My recollection was in the 30€ range and a Blink scan of the brochure of the logo. Walked bridge to bridge up and over the Seine. Thought for sure a blond sitting on the steps of the main boat ramp had to be the Jane Marie. Got within 30 feet spotted the white ankle socks – no Jane Marie I know wears white ankle socks. After my two and a half hours search I was ready to call it a French Mis-Connection go back to the hotel. I reached in my back pocket for my Metro all day ticket, retrieving two. Sure, hope Jane has money to buy another one. Up to the room 30 minutes later and there’s Jane Marie.

So, where were you? “I got off at the next stop, crawled under a turnstile because you had my ticket and I had no money. Got off at your stop but you weren’t there. Got back on the Metro to the Eiffel stop. Looked and waited, no teg, so I sneaked through entry’s and favor scanned exits – no ticky, no exity –  for free return trip on the train back home.”

Outside of that Ms. Kennedy how was your second day in Paris? “Got to go on the boat cruise at dusk making for great photos. Did Notre Dame, the Arch de Triumph, Moulin Rouge, and polished it off with the best French meal right here at the hotel.”


Now all we need is for them to let us back into Turkey.

Jane Marie’s Sabbatical

Jane Marie did her usual two weeks of research, spent six nights and seven days in hostel dormitories, took 700 photos, interviewed roommates, vendors, drivers and left a note for her mom in the West Wall.

The week after Jane Marie returned home, Trump announced he was moving the US Embassy to Jerusalem.


Jane Marie leaves a note for her dearly departed mother Mary Frances, in the West Wall (Wailing Wall). Once a week, they take the messages to Mt.Olive and bury them, so MF should have received it.